Artists and Potters

I had a full and interesting weekend. Friday, I was privileged to see some amazingly talented Rwandan artists doing live painting at the restaurant, Heaven. Through some of the Bridge to Rwanda folks, I became friends with Emmanuel and Innocent last Spring. They are brothers and artists with Ivuka Arts, here in Kigali. Ivuka Arts is an amibitious project headed up by another brother, Collin, who aims to develop Rwanda's cultural heritage and "use art to change lives." All the artists at Ivuka were self-taught, and now this core group of brothers has also mentored many promising young artists in Kigali, and helped them to hone their skills and become more exposed. Ivuka artists also do a lot to give back to their community, by teaching children at the orphanage art. Also, children who formerly begged on the street are finding hope and educational opportuities through Ivuka's traditional dance troupe, RwaMakondera. If you are artistic, or appreciate art, I encourage you to check out their website, http://www.ivukaarts.com/.

Art by Collin

Art by Innocent

On Saturday, a group of us headed right outside of the city to Gikondo, and attended the opening festivities of the 13th annual Rwandan International Trade Expo. I wasn't able to attend last year, so I was excited. It was a fun afternoon, and neat to see about 130 exhibitions from 70 different countries! There were even "county fair-type" rides like the swings there! But don't think I risked my life to ride those! Heck, the swings are dangerous enough at U.S. county fairs. I'll ride a motorcycle to town everyday, but there aint no way you can get me on a "fair ride" in Rwanda. Ha! I spent a nice afternoon perusing the booths. I almost bought a very large traditional drum for a very good, fair price, but then I remembered I had to take a moto home. I did buy a beautiful handmade, blue and green, pottery vase made by the Batwa Pygmy tribe here in Rwanda.

 The Batwa, or "Twa" people in Rwanda are the oldest record inhabitants of the Africa Great Lakes region. But now there are only about 50-60,000 left in the area. 30% of the Twa died in the genocide of 1994, and now they make up only 1% of Rwanda's population. The Twa are also known as semi-nomadic forest dwellers, and they have lived off the land for many years. But now, with the introduction of new development, and the clearing of forests for agriculture and other reasons, many Twa have been forced to leave their ancestral homes and have not been compensated in any way. Twa children have limited access to education, and have little to no say in political affairs. They are often discriminated against because of their pygmy ancestry, and sometimes treated as if they were animals. The European colonists who first settled in Rwanda treated the Batwa as "less than human." During the genocide, the Twa were used as human shields, between the warring Tutsi and Hutu tribes. It's estimated that now at least 70% of the Twa people in Rwanda make their living from begging on the streets.

However many of the Twa have turned to pottery as their new source of livelihood. Making pottery is an ancestral tradition, and carries social importance for the Twa community. The process of digging the clay and carrying it to their settlements allows for socialization and a sense of community amongst the potters. The Twa make beautiful pottery and sell it in the markets. I usually see the brown and green tones, but when I saw the blue vase on Saturday, I knew I had to get it! Another issue the Twa are having to deal with now is the competition from rice farms. The land where they harvest the clay is quickly becoming rice plantations due to a land policy change. Even since I've been here in Rwanda, everyone says the amount of pottery you see now is dwindling and pretty soon, the Batwa could lose another occupation that supports their livelihood. This article below, titled, "The People Who Don't Exist," is an excellent look into the plight of the Batwa. It's a little lengthy, but worth every minute of it. I highly suggest taking 5 minutes and reading this article. It'll give you a good historical picture of Rwanda as well.

http://www.culturalsurvival.org/publications/cultural-survival-quarterly/rwanda/people-who-dont-exist

My weekend ended with a visit to my special children at Home of Hope. I spent an afternoon with Genina, and two small, precious toddler boys that were brand-new to the orphanage. They just at on my lap, and starred as I sang to them, and you could tell they were a little "shell-shocked" at all the stimulation. Even though one of them lost his bladder all over my pants, I still had a wonderful afternoon. :-) And to top it off, I got to Skype with Aiden last night for like 30 minutes! (And Bekah and Caleb too!) I can only imagine what the guards on the road thought when they heard this white girl singing, "Old Macdonald Had a Farm" again and again. He was precious, and it was the perfect end to a great weekend. I just wished I could have jumped through the screen and kissed him. But he blew me enough kisses to last until next time...I miss that boy so much!

Hope ya'll had a good one as well! Peace!

One Year

This past Sunday, August 22, marks my one year anniversary of being in Rwanda. (minus the summer in NC!) This summer, people always asked me to tell them about what life is like here in the land of a thousand hills. Tell me about Africa is a phrase I heard so often. And many times I didn't know where to begin. There's too much to say, and too much that would be left unsaid if I tried. I can't quite adequately give this experience the justice it deserves when I talk about it; the life, the culture, the people, their smiles and hopes and dreams. I think I do the best when I try to tell their stories. Because their words always speak louder than anything I could say. Everyone has a story to tell here, and I try to adopt others' stories, as I fumble over my own. But the truth is, it's hard to explain it in words. Being here again, on African soil, running down the red dusty roads, listening to conversations at the market in all kinds of languages, being in a position to help others, to teach, to learn from them...it has changed me. Africa changes you. If you've spent any time in this wonderful continent, you know what I mean. There's something about this place that gets in my blood, and it has changed me. It has changed the way I view the world, the U.S., people. It has changed the way I view God. This one year has flown by. Like any experience, at first everything is new and foreign, and then you find your niche, and learn to adjust to the myriad of differences. And then one day, after being here a few months, you wake up and realize that this is normal now; that this is now your home! Of course, it was wonderful being back at "home" in N.C. this summer, where my family is. My heart is there, but my heart is here also.

I guess the irony is that home is really neither here nor there. Not for any of us! We, as followers of Jesus Christ, are kind of like aliens who don't have a home, per se. Or our real homes have not been realized yet. There's a lot about Rwanda that now feels like home to me, but of course, for all practical purposes it is obvious to everyone around me that Rwanda is not my true home. Having much lighter skin, blue eyes, and blonde hair, really sets me apart. I'm called "mzungu" every day by the locals, and hear the shouts as I run by them. "Mzungu" can mean foreigner, white person, or man walking in circles. Ha! I'm still an outsider here in many ways. But do people realize that we are all outsiders here on Earth? (Hebrews 11:13, 1 Peter 2:11). Is our life and walk with Jesus such that people recognize us as alien from an eternal “home”, rather than from North Carolina, the U.S.A. or elsewhere? (2 Peter 3:13) I try to ask, do my actions and words reflect my life in Christ, or do they simply reflect a stereotype, an accent, or regional behavior?

I know I am normally stereotyped as "rich" and "influential" in this current environment I am in. The influence God has given me here in Africa has come with not only a great ability to influence others, but also a burden to reflect Christ Jesus even more carefully. My days are filled with challenge and opportunity. Sometimes the challenges make it hard to appreciate the opportunity, and yet it is both a challenge and opportunity that God has called me here to this wonderful place, with your prayers and generous support. I'm only here by the grace of God!

This is home for me now. But in many ways, North Carolina felt the same this summer. But neither one feels exactly right. I guess wherever your home is, you shouldn't be too comfortable that you don't long for something better. Not a new city, or new house; but an eternal home that awaits us....and in the mean time, we are called to be the salt and the light to reach others with the knowledge that grace covers our humanity. (Matthew 5: 13-17).

Sorry, I got off on a tangent there about "home." Back to reflecting on one year in this beautiful place...

It is lifegiving to me to be here! There's something about Africa that makes me come alive...the beauty of the land, the brilliant smiles of the people you meet daily, the laughter of the children, the smells from the cooking huts, the hustle and bustle of the chaotic and lively market, the culture and vivacious traditional dancers, the beating of the drums in church, singing praises in so many languages, my diverse classroom, the huge volcanos and the rolling plains that are host to the wild animals, afternoon chai with a friend, not being constrained by time (it's African time!), running down the dusty, red dirt roads, the joys of watching the contentment in a child untainted by the desire for earthly possessions, the thrill of riding a motorcycle through the city during rush hour, and through the rolling hills as well, the sparkle in the eyes of the children at Mother Teresa's, the hardworking nuns who greet me, the hope of young people to achieve their goals and dreams, the determination and strength of a country to move past their dark history and into a bright future....these are just a few of the things that make me feel alive here in Rwanda and in Africa. Life is being lived here, and it brings me hope! Each day is a new adventure to be claimed.

But we also know that not all of Rwanda, or not all of Africa is full of joy and color and beauty. This country has suffered deep pains for many years. Suffering that neither you nor I could ever imagine. People here know horror. But they have also learned forgiveness. Even with the country's great strides though in the past 16 years, there are still millions of children who are orphaned and who still bear hunger pains daily. Even though Rwanda is set to be the next "technology" hub for East Africa, people are still dying of easily treatable diseases everyday.

I'm just gonna be honest here...one of the hardest things for me to find is my response to all of this. I wish I could say that I am always perfectly compassionate and that I respond in the most sensitive and appropriate ways. However, there are days when I am completely annoyed by the beggars who follow me around the neighborhood wanting my change. And there are days when I feel overwhelmingly guilty that I have white skin and was born into a family of privilege in the United States of America. There are days where I am extremely infuriated by the social injustices of this world, and there are days where I am just hopelessly heartbroken by needs around me, and I don't know what to do. But I know someone who does! And I continue to call on Him for answers.
But each day as I face different challenges and opportunities, I also feel blessed beyond belief to be here! To be a part of peoples' lives and their stories. To have influenced some of those stories...I am blessed! There are people who have rocked my world teaching me about the capabilities of the human heart and the limitless boundaries of the human strength. There are instances everyday where my faith is strengthened through a simple conversation and where I am awestruck by the beauty of the scenery that surrounds me. I relish in the freedom that comes from escaping a life of comfort, security, and familiarity. These people are teaching me more about life, love and our Father than I could ever teach them! God doesn't need me here. But I'm so humbled He chose to send me here. And so I try not to go through life each day overlooking simple joys or abundant blessings....OR ignoring distrubing injustices and cruelties of this world we live in. I must face both realities and gracefully learn to balance the two. And so here I am, this white-skinned, blonde-haired, blue-eyed, Southern girl, in this foreign land, learning to do just that. And in the meantime...longing for a more "permanent home."

A revelation!

Last night, I had the most wonderful affirmation from God. It was one of those awesome moments where I honestly could hear His voice talking to me, and EVERYTHING was made clear at once! I just grinned and just said, thank you Lord! I have been praying all summer about a certain situation, and praying for some specific confirmation about it; specific knowledge on how to act one way or the other, and the way the whole situation was resolved was NOT at all how I thought or wanted it to be....but last night, I finally understood what God was trying to show me for so long. I saw it, I heard Him, and everything totally clicked. I got the specific confirmation that I had been praying for, and I feel so overjoyed and feel like God is just totally awesome in answering His prayers. Of course, a couple weeks ago, I was starting to doubt and think, "What is going on here?" And last night, it all came together! I don't know if you've ever had one of those moments when everything is made clear, and you see how God protected you, and how He was with you, and why He allowed a certain thing to happen. I felt His presence in such a huge way last night, and just heard Him saying, "See, Emily, I knew all along. I know what's best for you. You are my child...my daughter. I know what is best for you, and I have worked out everything according to my plan for your good." Last night was one of those times where the light came on for me and I was just thanking him over and over again for his grace and mercy and His abundance of good gifts for me, his beautiful daughter! We are His children and He knows exactly what we need, exactly when we need it! Thanks for letting me share!

Elections

The citizens of Rwanda went to the polls on August 10 and re-elected President Paul Kagame for another term, his last constitutional term. He was elected with 93% of the vote, down from 97% seven years ago. Many expatriates had left the country for the elections, but I was just returning. And there was no fear. Rwandans held a safe and orderly election, and are to be commended for that. They are an example for many East African nations. Even with the sporadic grenades this quarter that have been attributed to the opposition or outsiders, there has been no climate of fear in the country, as many Western media outlets have reported. I've learned that you can't rely on a Western news outlet who comes in for one week or less, interviews a few people and think they know the whole story. There's a lot more to most stories than what the reader gets on Time or Newsweek or CNN. Rwanda is a constitutional democracy, and well recognized as the most progressive and “cleanest” government in Africa, with zero tolerance of corruption. There was another grenade thrown in town the night the results were announced, and 20 people were injured, but there were no fatalities, and they arrested the perpetrators when they tried to flee. On election night, my first night back, millions gathered at the stadium to celebrate Kagame's apparent victory. It was 4am when I got home from the airport and got in bed, and the partying at the stadium could be heard, even miles away. Then, something new happened in Rwanda. Fireworks were set off! And sparklers and other noise makers. Since I had just returned from the States and heard firworks on the 4th, I was used to the sound of them. However, many other expatriates, including my principal and his family, were alarmed and immediately got up, started praying and packing their bags to leave the country. They had been used to hear loud gunshots and bombs in Kenya, and along with other families here, they thought things had gone horribly wrong. I had to respond to many texts at 4am telling people that it was only firecrackers. Ha! Anyway, I, along with many, many other Rwandans are proud of what President Kagame and the people of Rwanda have acheived in rebuilding their country, and it's my hope that the progress will continue in his next term.

Here are a few points that President Kagame campaigned on:  
1. Many things thought to be “impossible” have been accomplished. The genocide totally destroyed Rwanda's economy, infrastructure, justice system, hospitals, schools, and all other civil institutions. They have all have been rebuilt to standards far superior to the pre-genocide era. But much work remains to achieve Rwanda's well-articulated "Vision 2020" by the year 2020.

2. The standard of living in Rwanda has been dramatically raised with universal education, access to healthcare, a government of “inclusion”, a doubling of per capita income, spectacular growth in economic development, foreign investment, and tourism,... but we are not yet satisfied,... we cannot rest upon these achievements when we can still do much more.

3. Rwanda has some critics in the West (as well as many passionate supporters). Let the critics come here to Rwanda and see the work and achievements of this government. Proof of the legitimacy and effectiveness of current “good governance” is found, and shall be found, not in rhetoric, but rather its achievements.

4. Rwandans must not look outside Rwanda for affirmation or for others to determine our destiny. Rwandans must bear the great responsibility of self-determination.

It feels great!

It feels GREAT to be back! I apologize for the lack of blogs since I've returned. Immediately after returning, I began furiously moving houses, moving classrooms, meeting new folks and introducing them to the town,  hiring new workers and guards, and getting ready for school to begin, all in less than a week! It feels good to be home though! My first moto ride after returning was dizzying! I realized just how much I had missed those dangerous things! While it was nice to be safely tucked inside my old, sturdy Tahoe all summer long, the thrill of the open air on my face, whizzing past life in Kigali, was in a way, very therapeutic! That is....until rush hour. That's when I wished I had my truck back. ha!

And as much as I loved chowing down on Bojangles and Whataburger this summer, my stomach is thanking me now for this nice switch back to all things healthy. I missed the juicy pineapples and passionfruit, and the grapefruit-sized avocados for next-to-nothing. I did already splurge and buy a Coke Zero here. (They are waay more expensive than at home, but I was excited to see one!) :-) Prices in general have increased a bit, but we all think it's due to the election, and the fact that there are many, many shorterm "mzungus" that just come to Rwanda for the summer, and leave again. And also due to dry season prices.

Other thoughts upon returning...

I'm still getting used to running with this high altitude, but my runs have been amazing! I have missed the dusty roads that weave through the village, the swarms of children running behind you, and the smells and noises of the women cooking with their babies cooing on their backs. Running the Loop Road through Baker's Creek Park doesn't quite evoke so much spirit within me, but it was nice not to be stared at this summer like I'm on display when I run. (I've got to get used to that again!) I love the return to all things simple. But it still takes some getting used to...the water not running all the time, sometimes no hot water, brown-outs many times during the day, and some blackouts as well, eating by candlelight, broken toilets, HUGE weird spiders, etc. Those are all just minor details I'll get used to again, but when you come from a couple months in the States, it feels really different for a while. I think it's harder returning now than it was for me when I came for the first time last year. I don't know why, but it feels that way. Maybe because I had just a short time at home this summer, and also everything was so new for me last year. I'm just rambling here. I do love my friendly lizard and gecko pals that keep me company at night, roaming all over my room...but we didn't quite appreciate discovering the big fish head in the toilet the first day back. Ha! Who knows how it got there!?! It's as hot here as it is in NC right now, but most nights it cools off a lot and you need a sweater even. Right now, Kigali is as dry and dusty as I've ever seen it. The last time it rained was in June, before I left! But the locals say the short rains are just around the corner, and most can even predict the date. Many say it will rain on the 28th of this month. I hope so cause we need it badly!

I live in the same diverse neighborhood of Gaculiro, but a different house a little farther away from the school. I love running through the neighborhood in the evenings and seeing Rwandans and Kenyans playing "football" in the grass, Indian kids playing cricket, our Chinese friends playing badminton in the streets, a Dutch family riding bicycles, and Americans playing ultimate frisbee. I always think that's probably what Heaven looks like...a sea of different faces, different smiles, all laughing and getting along together. I've got great new roommates. I prayed for them before I met them, and God has been so wonderful in answering those prayers! I live with Kelly, from Simpsonville, SC who teaches P.E. at KICS, and Kerry, from Lansing, Michigan who teaches first grade. I knew Kelly from last year when she was a Bridge 2 Rwanda volunteer teaching at Sonrise School in Musanze. They are both fun girls with big hearts, and it's been an answer to prayer that we have connected in such a good way.

It's been wonderful reconnecting with familiar faces, especially my sweet kids at Mother Teresa's Home of Hope. I was elated to see their bright eyes and big toothy grins, and get knocked down by their hugs again. My little one, Genine, found me immediately and we had the sweetest reunion. She laid her head on my chest and started singing "God is so good," and I about lost it. Those little ones bring me so much joy...listening to them sing, giving them piggyback rides, lettng them play with my mzungu hair. Children give such unashamed love, just like the love of our Father. It's a beautiful thing. If we could all have the faith and love of a child!

The first week of school was pretty eventful...well, the first day was, at least. On the first day, the generator at school blew up and caught fire and smoked out the whole neighborhood. It was quite a sight seeing all the workers in the neighborhood try to organize themselves and dig up dirt and sand to throw on it. It took about an hour to put out, and of course the Kigali fire brigade got there just as the locals got the fire under control. Thankfuly there was no damage to the school, and the nearby gas tank didn't blow up! Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me that day. I think I'm going to like my new students, but it sure was hard to say goodbye to last year's group. This year, I have 16 students and they are from every continent except Antarctica! I have students who are from or who have lived in: Rwanda, Uganda, Congo, Nigeria, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Burundi, Oklahoma, Texas, Vancouver, British Columbia, South Korea, India, Belgium, France, England, Bolivia, Dominican Republic, Colombia, and Melbourne, Australia! Talk about diversity! Social Studies is gonna be soooo fun this year! I've already learned about what a red-bellied black snake and a bandicoot is from Brandon from Melbourne! I think my new students will be fun, but challenging this year. I have one student, from South Korea, who speaks no English and he has Aspergers and Tourettes. Will you please pray with me that I can have the patience and strength each day to help meet his unique needs, and still have energy for the other students as well. This is a situation that I really need prayer about, and I am just placing it in front of the Lord every single day right now! Thank you for praying for me and my student.

Last weekend, the new KICS staff took a retreat to Lake Muhazi again. It was a good time to connect with new and old staff, and talk about new school policies as well. After a nice goat brochette lunch, I went down to the water and saw a young Rwandan boy in a dugout canoe rowing to the shore. As he got closer, I spotted familiar colors that I love, and then the beautiful symbol came into sight. The minute I saw this young fisherman, we became buddies. :-) A sweet reminder of my other home! I love when God chooses to surprise me in fun, little ways like seeing a T-shirt from home. The road going to and from the lake was less than stellar, and we had to go far into a wide ditch on the right to narrowly miss this gaping hole. Roads like this are a common sight when you get out of the city. Well, this blog is too long now. I know many of you are wondering about the elections and the post-election grenade. I'll write another one about all things politics in a minute. I miss all of you and think of you in my prayers each night. Peace!

The hole in the road!

Lovely Rwandan roads

Kerry and I at Lake Muhazi

My new fisherman friend :-)

Back in Kigali!

I'm back in the Land of a Thousand Hills! I arrived on Tuesday, and it's been crazy ever since! (good and bad!) I'm just starting to come down off my "high" of being back...and I am exhausted! So I will write later on in the weekend and give you all an update on the election (Kagame won!), the post-election grenade attack (we are safe), and everything new with school and new house and new roommates. But tonight I need sleep in a BIG way. I'll catch you up soon! Just wanted to let ya'll know I arrived safely. Thanks for your prayers! Love you!